A yurt is a portable, circular structure traditionally used by nomads in the steppes of Central Asia, dating back to the 12th century. The traditional yurt cover was felt, made by beating and rolling wet sheep fleece. The walls were low, made from poles, and the whole structure could be taken down and hauled by ox-cart. The yurt (ger) is still home to a large portion of the population in present day Mongolia.
Modern yurts take advantage of advances in materials and construction methods and are much more robust than their traditional counterparts.
Some modern uses of yurts include:
- Homes (Temporary or Permanent)
- Hunting/Fishing Shelters
- Rental Units
- Campgrounds - Church, Youth, Parks
- Second Homes/Vacation Shelters
- Guest House
- Meditation/Yoga Studios
- Meeting Place/Worship
- Festivals and Fairs
- Banquets and Receptions
We make yurts in four diameters, 16', 20', 24' and 30'. All of our yurts have 7'4" tall walls. We also make yurts with 24' and 30' diameters that have 10' walls.
We're located in the heart of the Blue Ridge Mountains, in the beautiful town of Floyd, Virginia.Our street address is:369 Parkway Lane SouthFloyd, VA 24091
Our yurts are designed to be easily assembled by you. We have clear assembly instructions, which should be studied ahead of time, and our website includes photos of the set-up process. A yurt-raising is a good occasion to call in friends and/or family, especially for the larger size yurts. A 16' yurt can be put up by two people in an afternoon. A 30' yurt may take a weekend.
Another option would be to hire a local contractor to raise your yurt for you. This is a great idea if you don't have access to scaffolding (for 24' and 30' yurts)
We also maintain an experienced team of individuals who can deliver and help oversee the setup of your yurt. Call for a quote.
Our yurts make a perfect vacation home, at a cost much less than building a cabin. They also provide a good place to live while building a more permanent shelter. When the house is finished, the yurt can become an office, guest room, or studio.
Areas vary widely in how their county officials view yurts. The building code terminology for the fabric yurt is “membrane-covered frame structure”. Where your site is, what size yurt, how it will be used, whether it is considered temporary, permanent, or semi-permanent, will be considerations in whether or not a permit will be required. A yurt is often classified as a studio, recreation structure, or auxiliary structure, instead of a full-time dwelling.
If you will be installing electricity and plumbing you will need permits from the appropriate officials. You may need a building permit for your deck or platform.
Yes, you can. The easiest way is to frame your platform on top of a deck frame, so insulating the floor and running your pipes and wires is simplified, however, a deck is not necessary.
You could heat your yurt in any manner that you would a conventional building: radiant floor heat, wood or propane stove, electric, or solar. Our foil insulation reflects whatever heat you generate back into the room. You can opt to have insulation panels that insert into your window flaps. Insulating your floor when you build your platform, adding window insulation, together with your wall and ceiling insulation, should keep you toasty on the coldest days.
Optional Stovepipe Insert
It is easier to stay warm in a yurt than it is to stay cool in one. In a very warm location, you may want to consider a cupola, instead of a dome. A tinted dome option eliminates a lot of the UV rays. Our window flaps can double as awnings over the windows, which, especially if you put insulation in the flap pockets, would keep the heat at bay. Venting the dome or cupola allows the hot air to escape. Planning your window locations to get cross breezes helps a lot, as does adding a screen door. A ceiling fan can keep the summer air stirred as well as circulate and push the warm air back down in the winter. It can be hung either under your center ring or placed off-center between rafters, which allows easier access to your dome. An air conditioner is also possible.
You can wash the outside of your yurt with warm water and dish soap. Do not use a power washer. Keep leaves and debris cleaned off of the roof. To clean your dome and windows first brush off any debris, which can scratch the surfaces, then wash with a soft cloth (do not use paper towels or newspaper), mild soap and water, then rinse.
Our yurts are engineered to withstand 90 mph winds, without any interior supports. Our standard yurt package contains vertical supports that can be added under half of the rafters, and each rafter has a metal strip reinforcing its connection to the ring. These would add additional wind resistance. Another method for insurance would be to add a small finishing nail behind the cable in the rafter notch.
We also recommend putting a hook and latch on the outside of your door and hooking it when you are gone, as very strong winds can twist the frame enough that the door may blow open, which could cause trouble.
Periodically, you should check that the bottom cable on your yurt is still tight up under the floor. This cable is your main insurance against wind ripping your walls.
You need to check with your county building inspector to see what the load requirements are in your area. Our yurts are engineered for 40 psf (pounds per square foot), without any additional supports. A vertical support under every rafter would increase this psf, as would opting for our heavier-duty roof fabric.
No. It needs to be set several inches above a deck or the ground, and on a round platform, the same diameter as the yurt. This is necessary so the walls can be tucked under the flooring, for a secure, wind-proof, installation, where water can run off onto the ground beneath.
We have construction plans for a round deck with the platform in the center, and also for a square deck with the platform framed on top of the deck framing.
A Round, Framed Deck
A square framed deck with a round platform
A poured concrete slab built by one of our customers
The platform that the yurt sets on can be challenging if you don't have much experience. You may need to hire someone to build your deck and/or round platform.
We try to make our yurt assembly instructions very clear, and hope to add photos soon, as a picture is truly worth all those words. The hardest part is hanging the door, as it is heavy and awkward, and there does seem to be a knack to it. That is also the very last step. The only other part that may make you scratch your head is putting the rafters over the door, as they will need to be cut correctly, on site. We hope our instructions can guide you through it with ease. Everything else is a piece of cake!
Yes we do. We have plans for a round deck with the platform in the center, and for a square deck, with the platform framed on top of the deck framing. It is important to be able to reach all of your windows from the outside unless they are non-operable, so plan your deck accordingly.
Yes you can. You can divide off an area using movable partitions or curtains, or you can build interior partitions with lumber. It is efficient for plumbing if a bath partition wall is shared with a kitchen. Partitions are added after the yurt is up. They should not be attached to the rafters. They are attached at the floor and can be secured to your lattice wall or your vertical supports. They can have ceilings or be open at the top to share light from the central dome.
Example Of Interior Walls
Your walls are 7’4" tall and your roof rises 7” per each foot of run. In all size yurts, lofts can provide good storage space and extra sleeping space, especially for little people. A loft will be 5’10” at 10’ out from your wall. So on the 24’ and 30’ yurts, you could have a loft that you can stand up in.
If you purchase a 24' or 30' yurt with 10' walls, you'll have more than enough space to build a loft in your yurt.